Botswana - June/July 2014
(This trip report contains a lot of pictures and there is a chance that not all of them will load the first time. If you are using Mozilla Firefox you could right click on any unopened files and reload them.)
Including Island Safari Lodge Maun, Moremi, Savuti, Chobe, Elephant Sands, Kubu Island and Khama Rhino Sanctuary.
It was a marvellous trip booked by Viv Thomé of 2bwild Safaris.
Once again fate favoured us and we were invited to join the Van Der Reyden's on their trip to Botswana.
We carted three cameras along and took lots of pictures - many duplicates - in the hope of getting some good ones.
These blurbs are difficult enough with just one camera and lots happened on this trip - maybe I will add the pictures and sort out the text as I work on it. Maybe I should just post the blurb and leave the pictures to your imagination. The pictures on one camera were saved in JPEG and the other cameras were saving in RAW. Also all the pictures are too large to post as they are and have to be reduced. What a goings on! It has taken me about two full days and the page is far from finished. Now it really looks like I may have to split it into a number of pages as it will take ages to load. Picasa has altered how it works and that is a pain as it is slower to load the pictures and I am having to paste and copy each link separately. Also it appears they think they can enhance the image and this I could do without too. Anyway a luta continua.
After all the blurb above I changed the accessibility of the Picasa page and everything went belly up - so the pictures open below (after ages) and the text that was between the pictures is lying in a heap below!
The Picasa web address is:
https://picasaweb.google.com/105203493367845189954/BotswanaJune2014?authkey=Gv1sRgCKbo-eym0_S34AE
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Below is the text that used to be interspersed between the pictures.
Below are two types of maps showing the route we took in red.
Wednesday 25 June - Sebe Sebe Lodge - Stockpoort
Sylvia at the church at Sebe Sebe.
Sitting outside before dinner beside the lovely fire.
Another picture this time using the camera flash.
It was cold. The lodge had an air conditioner which worked all night. I dreamt of the 4x4 rooftop tent and the Electric Blanket and the down sleeping bags.
Thursday 26 June - Island Safari Lodge - Maun
We found a lovely camp site but at first the electric power was not working - fortunately this was soon sorted out.
Retief and Desiree's vehicle.
Our vehicle - note the electric wire running to the back.
We used the Electric Blanket. Hereafter this blanket will be referred to as the "EB".
The resident cat visited us and seemed to just enjoy attention. The moggie preferred Retief's company to mine but I got over it.
Friday 27 June - Island Safari Lodge - Maun
There was clattering around at night and packing in the morning.
Then - before the Astronomical Dawn there was the most awful wailing and lamenting. Good grief it sounded like some alien religion calling all the demons in hell to visit us. Later we found out that this caterwauling was a political call to arms. There will be an election some time in the future we were told. The screamer being disemboweled was merely referring to the attractions of his party and the hopelessness of his opponents.
Grumbling softly we arose and froze as the sun rose.
Sandra at the lodge arranged for a taxi to to take us to and fetch us from Maun airport. We caught a plane and flew over the delta. This is essential if you want to get any idea what the delta looks like and it is a big mistake not to do this at least once. The delta is flat and you get no perspective at road level as you drive along.
Our pilot and Retief making sure we knew where we were going.
The Buffalo fence.
View to the horizon.
Elephants crossing the water.
Elephants again.
Buffaloes.
Elephants.
Elephants.
Buffaloes.
Later that afternoon we took a boat ride from the lodge to the buffalo fence where we started our flight over the delta in a doorless helicopter.
Sylvia remained at home while I left and took off as the machine could only accommodate four people including the pilot. We argued and she won.
On the way back from the helicopter flight I managed to take some bird snaps from the boat.
African Jacana in flight.
Senegal Coucal
On the way back to the camp site our boat ran out of fuel and we got a lift from some kind locals who took us on board their craft and delivered us back to the lodge pier. They had been out and were enjoying a little alcoholic beverage.
EB that night again.
Saturday 28 June - Kaziikini Campsite - Outside Moremi
The showers and toilets looked very promising. There were gas cylinders and a number of gas shower heaters around as well as a solar water panel - all broken! This is an example of using the wrong technology in the wrong place. A "donkey" heated by wood would have worked. No EB and no washing for at least one of the elderly.
Our vehicle at the campsite.
Retief and Dersiee's vehicle at the campsite.
African Horned Cucumber - I had no idea this thing was so valuable!
http://livingseeds.co.za/african-horned-cucumber
We explored the newly opened southern section of Moremi which was not on Tracks4Africa. It was a lovely area with lots of animals to be seen.
Arrow-marked Babbler.
White-browed Sparrow Weaver.
Lilac Breasted Roller.
Lechwe.
Tsessebe.
Gnus resting.
Crossing First Bridge. Someone had attempted to go around the bridge but this was clearly unwise.
There were not many flowers to be seen - in fact these were the only ones we noticed so in the tradition of photographing it or them whether it or they moves or not here they are.
Those that may have paged through our site may notice that I like paths. The value of the animals in these areas in terms of tourism can not be overemphasized.
Sunday 29 June - Kaziikini Campsite - Outside Moremi
Facilities at the camp same as yesterday - there were trees though.
Once again we set off to Moremi and we came across a pack of wild dogs on the road. They were on the hunt.
African Wild Dog.
And next a herd of elephants crossed the road.
Monday 30 June - Khwai Community Campsite - Magotho
The drive here was eventful to say the least. The bridges, First, Second, Third and Fourth were all crossed. Our lunch stop was at Xaxanaxa. This information is mainly to show that I can spell the name.
Third Bridge was an interesting sight.
I think this may be the Fourth Bridge below. (I think Jorri Jordaan confirmed this.)
and large Mopani Trees.
Moremi was wet in the North but we avoided any water adventures.
Or maybe this is Fourth Bridge. (Someone will surely comment on the bridges and I will make appropriate alterations.)
We have now left North Gate and are trying to get to our next destination - these pictures show "possible" routes (for other people - not for me thank you!).
We avoided much of the the water in Moremi but on leaving North Gate there was a water crossing on the way to Khwai Community Camp which we found with the help of a local. A main road I was told. It was what could only be described as a significant crossing. It was cold and there appeared to be vehicle tracks in and out so I drove at the water and then under it. I suggested in frantic tones that Sylvia might like to take a few pictures as we submerged but she squawked that there was water pouring in. I thought perhaps the doors were leaking but no - It was the air vent above the bonnet and the water rose about a quarter of the windscreen as I hoped quite hard that the vehicle would continue moving hopefully out the other side and not any further under. I listened carefully, or as carefully as an old codger can, for a hard pinging sort of sound that would mean it was too late already to turn the engine off to save it. We got through or rather across due to luck alone.
The following two pictures are extremely important to us as they are the last taken as we began to descend. The second one is a bit blurred - things were happening fast.
Later we were told that the side we used was for trucks and Retief's side was for lighter motor vehicles. We were under water for approximately twice as long and quite a bit deeper. Retief relates how the rear rose while the nose dove (dove is American for dived as I recall).
Retief decided to bathe at this stage. Sylvia is a good sport and she accompanied him and they waded around happily. The decision was made to choose another crossing from the one I took. It was shallower and Retief's vehicle did not remain in the water as long as ours did and it did not descend to quite the same depth - although it was deep.
Here goes.
It seemed very deep actually.
But all is well that ends well.
It was a pretty area - to look at but terrifying to drive through unless you have an insured hired vehicle.
We eventually found "the sign" we had been looking for.
Note the arrow below indicating a right turn.
On arrival at our campsite we saw a leopard walking through but the light was too bad to get more than a blurred picture of it. The Camel Thorn Trees were shaken by elephants that seemed quite used to people.
Tuesday 1 July - Khwai Community Campsite - Magotho
Our camp site was in a grove of large Camel Thorn Trees (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vachellia_erioloba) and the trees still had seeds on them. The elephants came to visit our campsite often during the day and night to shake the trees so that the pods would fall and they would then "hoover" them up.
Vehicles were unpacked so water ingestion could be assessed and bits dried.
Waterbuck.
Black-winged Stilt.
The fine gentlemen below were enjoying an afternoon snack.
We went for a drive in the afternoon and this elephant decided perhaps we should reverse - and we obliged. Perhaps he just thought we had peanuts.
We have been told that you should not give way to elephants that charge you as they learn not to avoid vehicles and play with you - very difficult to bear that in mind as the animal advances in a most determined manner. Maybe next time.
That evening one elephant moved in to shake the trees very close to our vehicles and Retief spoke to it in Afrikaans and it seemed to understand and grudgingly moved off.
Wednesday 2 July - Savuti Campsite (I note that sometimes Savuti is spelled Savute but whether this is an impending change or just careless spelling I do not know. Both spellings are on the internet.)
The road to north was sometimes sandy - if you have driven on this before you will know.
We were given a large campsite and told not to use all the space as the elephants like to shake the Camel Thorn Trees here too and hoover up the pods that fall.
Some of the tracks are filling with water as the river is rising.
That afternoon we found a pride of lions but they were quite far away. One cub amused us by displaying tree climbing abilities.
Saddle Bill Storks and Giant Egrets.
After our previous experience we probably would not have even attempted this crossing had I not seen someone else go through earlier.
Lilac Breasted Roller.
Elephant passing by.
Giving the tree a good shake.
Wonderful experience to have elephants sharing your camp.
I say there - that is our ladder against the bush.
Relaxing.
Gnus
Lovely old man.
Handsome.
Cory Bustard.
Lilac Breasted Roller.
Thursday 3 July - Savuti Campsite
Friday 4 July - Chobe Safari Lodge
We took a snap of the Naumann's as they departed south and we headed for Chobe Safari Lodge.
Giraffes seem to be doing well a we saw quite a few of them throughout the area.
Heading North.
A Baobab trunk.
A resident Warthog at the Lodge.
EB was lovely. The Lodge is located right on the border of the Chobe National Park. The only disadvantage is there are baboons and vervet monkeys around and we decided to fold our tents daily which fortunately required little effort.
Saturday 5 July - Chobe Safari Lodge
More EB use. A morning boat trip from 8am to 10am was enjoyed. In fact enjoyed so much that another trip was arranged for tomorrow.
I saw that Retief took his monopod along and I am very glad that I decided to do the same. I have never taken pictures from a boat before and it was a wonderful experience as you are able to get far closer to the animals than you are in a vehicle. This is a photographer's dream as there is action almost all the time.
However I must emphasise that special thanks are due to Isaac Balemogeng who went out of his way to position the boat so the light fell on the animals correctly. Should you wish to have Isaac guide you his contact details are: Telephone 00267 73 200996 or e-mail balemogengisaac@yahoo.com.
Isaac Balemogeng
African Darter.
Fish Eagle.
Waterbuck.
Pied Kingfisher.
African Skimmer.
Collared (Red-winged) Pratincole.
Yellow Billed Stork.
Spoonbill.
Spoonbill.
Yellow Billed Stork.
Pied Kingfishers.
African Skimmers.
Yellow-billed Stork.
Kittlitz's Plover.
Juvenile African Jacana.
Malachite Kingfisher.
Greenbacked Heron.
African Darter taking off.
Fish Eagles.
Pied Kingfisher.
White-fronted Bee Eater.
African Jacana.
Comb (Knob Billed) Duck.
Black Winged Stilt.
Fish Eagle.
Wire-tailed Swallow
Reed Cormorant.
Giant Kingfisher.
Purple Heron.
Open-billed Stork.
We visited Chobe in the afternoon.
Sunday 6 July - Chobe Safari Lodge
Continuing EB use. A boat trip from 10am to 2pm was enjoyed.
Monitor Lizard.
Below the elephants are gathering to cross the river.
White-fronted Bee Eater.
Monday 7 July - Elephant Sands
As we left Kasane we saw lots and lots and lots of large trucks waiting to cross at the Kazingula ferry. It looked lie they would be there for days before they would be able to get across to Zambia.
When we arrived I noticed that there was a lot of water in the pan and was glad to see an elephant was drinking there. I thought that perhaps as there was so much water around that they may not visit the lodge. A number of new permanent tents have been erected since we were last there and some are in the path where the elephants used to walk. On the second night there was a commotion and I thought perhaps the elephants had decided to remove our tent but this was not the case.
It was freezing cold at night in the lodge tent. The floorboards had gaps that allowed the antarctic conditions to rise. There was no electricity and therefore no EB and the bedding fell very far short of what we had in the vehicle. Much consideration was given to abandoning the lodge tent and using our lodging.
Tuesday 8 July - Elephant Sands
Night temperature same as day before.
We were given permission to drive in a reserve which we enjoyed.
We found some Belgian's and offered to take them to Kubu Island. They do not know me at all so they thought this could be a good idea.
Wednesday 9 July - Kubu Island
We had breakfast at the Wimpy at Nata and the Belgians arrived shortly after we sat down. They were in a Land Rover and father and mother sat in the front whilst the four daughters occupied the single back seat.
On the way to Kubu Island we pulled a two wheel drive vehicle and trailer which had got bogged down out of the sand to the incredulous chants of "Land Cruiser very powerful". This only took a few minutes as the path just ahead of them was firm and they continued on using another track.
Some nice Baobabs were seen on the way and of course the Island has iconic Baobabs.
The Belgian daughters - Gaelle, Manon, Margaux and Noemie.
The Belgians - Patrick Vanherpe and Isabelle Declerq.
The Belgian Land Rover
Star Chestnut tree seeds
We accompanied a guide on an expensive walk - so expensive in fact that we refused to go so the price was reduced by half and then we went.
A hole in the rock wall - not convinced that the story we were told about it was absolutely correct - unless the walls had been considerably higher in the past. Supposedly food was passed to the boys by the girls who were not allowed to look upon them during some initiation ceremony. For this to have worked the maidens would have to have leopard crawled to the hole from some distance away otherwise they would have seen the boys over the top of the wall - unless the boys lay on the ground at the foot of the wall.
The loneliest Sesame Bush - the only one on the Island.
The lonely Baobab seed pod.
Sunset pose.
Fitting it all in.
The road out from Kubu Island.
It was cold at night.
Thursday 10 July & Friday 11 July - Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Within a few moments of leaving Kubu Island, supposedly together - we lost the Belgian contingency. How I do not know but we agreed that Retief would remain on the track while I went back to try and find the missing ones. Retief and I had radios so we headed back. There they were with Patrick perusing an A5 sized book map to see where he was. Retief in the meantime dug out a hand held radio so we could keep them under a watchful eye or ear. As we drove along I noticed a packet of chips that had probably fallen off a caravan that left ahead of us. I mentioned that I had seen the packet of chips on the radio. The Belgians were ecstatic when they stopped and retrieved them as they thought we had thrown the packet out for them. Very strange idea to think we would throw goodies out for the following vehicles to find. Anyway the chips did not go to waste.
On the morning of the 11th it was so cold that my D200 shutter would not work at all.
It was cold - but always lovely to be there. They had hot water in the showers which was a luxury.
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill.
Southern Pied Babbler.
Franklin.
Crimson-breasted Shrike.
Crimson-breasted Shrike.
Saturday 12 July - Home
We left around 8 am and arrived home in the afternoon.
A really wonderful trip as you can see. The pensioners are very lucky to be able to do these trips.